How to Interpret and Understand Your E-Bike's "P" Setting Codes

So, "P" codes, huh? Yeah, those things. If you're like most folks, you probably thought buying an e-bike would get you away from confusing tech, not deeper into it. The last thing anyone wants is to spend their Saturday afternoon deciphering digital hieroglyphics on a tiny screen! But, hey, before you throw your e-bike into the nearest lake (tempting, I know!), let Mitch from Aviva Bikes help. I spend my days wrestling with these electric contraptions, from Naktos to Vtuvias to Ancheers, and everything in between. I've learned the dark secrets of the "P" codes. So, chin up – you're in the right place. We'll get you back to actually enjoying that e-bike, ASAP.

These pre-programmed codes are essentially the settings that control how your bike performs. Getting them right is crucial for a smooth and enjoyable ride. Mess them up, and you might find yourself with a sluggish motor, a non-functional pedal assist, or a speedometer that’s completely off. So, let's dive in and demystify these "P" codes.

A Quick Disclaimer: These codes can vary slightly depending on your bike's brand and display. However, this guide covers the most common settings you'll encounter. If you go to a specific "P" setting and the value options don't look the same as described here, be careful; it could mean you're looking at a different setting or that the settings correspond to a different "P" code altogether. Always exercise caution when making changes.

If you're unsure about a particular setting, consult your owner's manual or bring your bike into a shop like ours! Also, messing with these settings can be tricky, and you might accidentally change something without remembering the original value. Taking a video of all the settings when you first open the menu can be a lifesaver.

Important Note on Performance: Changing these settings will often not make your bike faster or more powerful. Your battery will always deliver its rated voltage (e.g., 48V will only push 48V), regardless of the settings. The purpose of these settings is to ensure your bike is performing correctly. For example, setting the voltage to 48V when you have a 52V battery might cause your bike to underperform. However, setting it to 48V when you have a 36V battery could seriously damage your battery after just one ride!

Here's my go-to guide, based on real-world experience:

Accessing the "P" Menu: The most common way to access the "P" menu is to power on the bike and ensure it's stationary. Then, hold the "+" and "-" buttons simultaneously. The display should change from showing your speed to displaying "P01." Use the "+" and "-" buttons to navigate between the different "P" settings. Once you're on the "P" setting you want to edit, you'll typically need to press another button to edit its value (usually, it's the "i" button). The value at the bottom of the screen will flash, and then you can use the "+" and "-" buttons to change it. Press the "i" button again to bring the cursor back to the "P" setting. When you're done, either wait for the "P" code menu to time out or turn off the display and power it back on.

P01: Backlight Brightness
- Usually ranges from 1 to 3.
- 1 is the darkest, 3 is the brightest. This one is all about personal preference and visibility in different lighting conditions.

P02: Unit of Distance
- 0 = Kilometers (km)
- 1 = Miles (mi)
- Pretty straightforward! Choose the unit you prefer.

P03: Voltage Grade (Battery Voltage)
- Ranges from 24V, 36V, 48V, and 52V.
- THIS ONE IS SUPER IMPORTANT!
- Why it matters: This setting tells your speed controller how much electricity to draw and when to cut it off to prevent over-draining your battery.
- How to set it: Look at your e-bike battery. If it's a 36V battery, set P03 to 36. If it's a 48V battery, set it to 48, and so on. If you have a 50V battery set it to 52V.
- What happens if it's wrong? Your battery could over-discharge, leading to premature wear, or the bike might shut off prematurely, leaving you stranded.

P04: Sleep Time (Minutes)
- Specifies how long the display stays on after inactivity, usually up to 60 minutes.
- This setting typically doesn’t affect bike performance; it's more about battery conservation for the display itself.

P05: Pedal Assist Grades (PAS Levels)
- This one can get a little tricky, as there are two main modes.
- First Number = 0:
  - Then the grades usually are:
    - 1: 2V
    - 2: 3V
    - 3: 4V
- First Number = 1:
  - Then the grades usually are:
    - 1: 2V
    - 2: 2.5V
    - 3: 3V
    - 4: 3.5V
    - 5: 4V

What it is? Some displays may have even more pedal assist grades. Voltage ranges the controller is going to send to your pedal assist.
Why it matters: When your voltage range is not set correctly according to your pedal assist voltage range it could cause your pedal assist to be non-functional or it could cause it to malfunction.

P06: Wheel Size (Inches)
- This setting directly affects your speedometer and odometer accuracy.
- Why it matters: If set incorrectly, your bike might think it's at top speed when it's not, limiting your actual speed. Or, it might show a slower speed than you're actually going.
- How to set it: Look at the sidewall of your rear tire. You'll find a number like "26 x 2.125" or "700x38C." Set P06 to the corresponding wheel size (e.g., 26 for a 26-inch tire).

P07: Speed Measuring Magnet
- This one is related to your motor's power. Set it to '01' for most common gears. Set to '14' for common 500W to 750W hub motors. Use '47' for direct drive 1200W and above motors.

P08: Speed Limit
- This setting controls the maximum speed your e-bike will assist you.
- A value of "100" usually means no speed limit is applied.
- Be mindful of local regulations regarding e-bike speed limits.

P09: Zero Start Toggle
- Determines whether the throttle works from a complete stop.
- 0 = Zero Start: Throttle only works after you start pedaling.
- 1 = Non-Zero Start: Throttle works from a standstill.

P10: Driving Mode
- This setting can make it seem like your pedal assist or throttle is broken!
- 0 = Pedal Assist Only: The motor is only activated by pedaling.
- 1 = Throttle Only: The motor is activated by the throttle; pedal assist is disabled.
- 2 = Pedal Assist and Throttle Active: Both pedal assist and throttle work. This is the most common and usually the most desired setting.

P11: Pedal Assist Sensitivity
- Determines how quickly the pedal assist kicks in when you start pedaling
- A lower setting (e.g., 1) makes the pedal assist engage almost immediately.
- A higher setting (e.g., 20) delays the engagement of pedal assist.

P12: Pedal Assist Start Strength
- Controls the initial "kick" from the pedal assist. Ranges from 1 to 5.
- Lower value (1): Smoother, less aggressive power delivery.
- Higher value (5): More immediate and stronger pedal assist.

P13: Pedal Assist Magnet Type
- This setting often makes pedal assist look broken
- Refers to the number of magnets in the pedal assist sensor ring.
- Common options are 5, 8, and 12.
- Why it matters: If set incorrectly, the pedal assist won’t function properly.
- How to set it: Count the magnets on your pedal assist ring, or try different settings until the pedal assist works correctly.

Troubleshooting Tips

Start with the Basics: Double-check your battery voltage (P03) and wheel size (P06). These are common culprits.
Pedal Assist Problems? Make sure P10 is set to "2" (both throttle and pedal assist active) and experiment with P11 and P12. Verify the magnet type in P13 is correct.
Speedometer Issues? Double-check your wheel size (P06) and speed measuring magnet (P07)
Factory Reset: Some displays have a "factory reset" option. This can be a good starting point if you've made a lot of changes and aren't sure where things went wrong. However, be aware that:

Not all displays have a factory reset option.

Even if a display does have a reset function, it might not restore the settings to the correct factory defaults for your specific bike. Sometimes the factory defaults are still incorrect. In some cases, the reset works perfectly.
Because of these potential issues, using the "factory reset" should usually be considered a last resort option. Be prepared to manually adjust the settings afterward to ensure they are correct for your e-bike. It's always best to try and troubleshoot specific issues before resorting to a full reset.

Final Thoughts
Understanding your e-bike's "P" codes can empower you to fine-tune your ride and troubleshoot common issues. Don't be afraid to experiment (carefully!) and consult your owner's manual.

Written by: Mitch from Aviva™ Bikes

P.S. If you are ever stuck, our team is always here to help. We support all our customers long after the sale. Whether you need help adjusting settings, troubleshooting issues, or maintaining your e-bike for peak performance, or understanding the "P" settings on your display, we’re here for you. Regular maintenance—like keeping your battery charged, checking tire pressure, and cleaning your drivetrain—will keep your e-bike running smoothly for years to come.

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